My oh my, has Retsina come a long way. In my former life, when I lived in the United States, I used to sell Greek wine. I would walk into a wine shop and start my spiel about the wines I had with me, Assyrtiko from Santorini, Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Moschofilero from Mantineia, Xinomavro from Naoussa, you know, the good stuff. More often than not, the wine shop buyer would stop me, point to a bottom shelf and say, I already have 2 Greek wines. I didn’t even need to turn my head to know that it was a 1.5l bottle of Retsina and a dusty bottle of Mavrodaphne.
I then needed to launch into a discussion about how Greek wine has improved drastically over the last few years (this was 2009), and how I promise I’m not selling Retsina. My early wine career was spent trashing Retsina and assuring wine buyers that these Greek wines were different and better. Now I’m eating my words. Well too be fair, Retsina used to be awful and it was one of the only Greek wines Americans knew.
Well years later, when I moved to Greece, still with the belief that Retsina was nasty, I met the sales manager of Kechris, a winery famous for their odd-shaped bottle of Retsina. With him, he also had 3 other versions of Retsina- a Retsina made from Assyrtiko grapes, a rose retsina from Xinomavro, and a slightly frizzante Retsina. I was blown away! The wines were made very well, they didn’t taste like turpentine, and quite frankly, they were delicioius. After that, I was hooked. I can now proudly say, I love Retsina- well quality Retsina, at least.
If you also have preconceived bad feeling of Retsina, I assure you it’s worth another look. Learn all about Retsina below; what it is, how it’s made, and it’s rich history in Greece.
What is Retsina?
Although many consider Retsina a type of white wine, it falls into its own category. Basically, it is wine flavored with pine resin (retsini) from the Aleppo tree. It’s a Greek wine product, I’d say. The initial wine comes in contact with pine resin during fermentation. As a result, Retsina comes to life with a distinctive taste that sets it apart from other wines. Retsina is a uniquely Greek product and only Greece has the right to use the name. Retsina is usually made with wine from Roditis or Savvatiano grapes. While it is made all over Greece, the main regions for Retsina production are in Attica, the wine region around Athens.
The pine resin, retsini, is sap from the Aleppo pine tree. Today in Greece Aleppo pine forests are found in Evia island, Skopelos island, Corinth, Halkidiki, and Attica. Retsini flavors vary from region to region. The biggest difference is Aleppo forests near the sea take on a salty flavor and retsini from Aleppo forests in the mountains have an earthier flavor.
History of Retsina
Ancient wines were flavored with pine
Retsina dates back thousands of years to the Ancient Greeks. The Ancient Greeks liked their wine, I mean, they dedicated a whole god to it! While they hadn’t quite figured out many nuances to winemaking, they knew that wine that was exposed to air spoiled faster.
Since technology in classical Greece was nothing like today, Greeks had to find a way around to seal their amphoras, the special clay vessels used to store wine. With trial and error, they realized pine resin could do just that, it’s pretty stick after all. Before long, they also noticed resin adds a distinctive flavor to the wine and they liked it! It also masked any off flavors the wine had. And that’s how Retsina was born.
Retsina’s Bad Reputation
During the 20th century, Retsina slowly developed a bad reputation. The reason? Many Greeks added resin to wine to mask any sour or spoiled flavors or aromas. In other words, they often tried to cover some of their mistakes using pine resin.
And if you factor in that they often used low-quality spoiled grapes and powdered retsini instead of fresh retsini, you start to understand why Retsina has long carried a bad reputation. Retsina had been described as smelling like turpentine, nail polish, and air freshener. Cheap wine made with cheap resin made by factories, not wine makers. It was a recipe for disaster. Retsina was EVERYWHERE in the 70’s and 80’s just as tourism in Greece was starting to flourish.
Retsina was often the first impression any non-Greeks had of Greek wine. It made a lot of people never want to try ANY Greek wine again.
Thankfully, those years are mostly behind us and Retsina has been making a huge comeback for the last decade or so.
Retsina Culture in Greece
Because of its historically low cost and abundance in the market, Retsina is as close to a national drink as a Greek wine can be. Retsina is/was served by the carafe in most local taverns, in people’s homes, and even at weddings. You can even grab a bottle at a periptero, or corner kiosk.
Retsina pairs really well with many Greek dishes, from fish to meat or vegetables (more Retsina food pairing ideas later). It’s excellent served cold by the sea with fried calamari, or enjoyed in a mezedopoleio in the alley taverns of Athens and Thessaloniki. Also common is mixing Retsina with Sprite or Coke (not different from Spain’s kalimoxto). Many villagers will also make their own batches of Retsina to drink at home (I am sure this is to cover up bad flavors though).
Now, many crappy Retsinas are still around. When in Greece, order bottled Retsina instead of by the carafe. Remember, you get what you pay for and while that 4 euro bottle might be tempting, if you up your budget, you’ll see what I’m talking about.
A rebirth of Retsina
Since it is a uniquely Greek product, many winemakers decided it was time to do it right and attempt to shed Retsina’s bad image; a huge mountain to climb. It’s simple really; quality wine and quality retsini. Instead of using spoiled grapes, winemakers used healthy grapes. Instead of crappy powdered retsini, using it in its purest form. With high-quality wine, the addition of retsini is an enhancement, not a cover-up. Even the entry level Restinas got an upgrade. Rebranding and marketing also played a huge role in how people perceive Retsina wine today.
Sure, you’ll still find old Greek men sitting at a seaside tavern sipping on their Retsina but Retsina is also on wine lists at Michelin starred restaurants.
Why Retsina is worth discovering
Apart from its distinctive flavor and taste, Resina is worth discovering because it is a uniquely designated Greek product. In other words, it can only be produced in Greece, just like Verdea wine in Zakynthos.
You will ever taste anything quite like Retsina. It’s unique, it’s different, and you just might like it. As I stated, Retsina also pairs great with many Greek dishes.
Is Retsina dry or sweet?
In short, Retsina is a dry white wine based beverage. It’s not like anything you’ve tasted before. I know that sounds confusing, but Retsina’s flavor is so uncommon that you have to try to really understand it. You can think of its taste as mild and aromatic. Retsina is not sweet though, the wine base of Roditis or Savvatiano is very dry.
What does Retsina smell and taste like?
Although the quality and flavor of Retsina can vary from brand to brand, you only need to try Retsina once to distinguish it from other wines. For example, you can immediately notice how the balsamic fragrance of pine complements the aromas of the grapes. Retsina smells like pine, herbal tea, botanics, fresh herbs, and spices. Depending on the wine base, you can also find aromas of tropical fruit like mango, citrus fruit like lemons and bergamot, and orchard fruit like green apple.
When it comes to your palate, you may feel a subtle bitterness with a refreshing aftertaste. Retsina has an earthy flavor, some citrus notes, and many botanical flavors as well. Retsina is a light bodied wine with medium acidity and low alcohol. It is crisp and refreshing with a dominant pine flavor.
(In)Famous Retsina brands
Malamatina Retsina
In many parts of Greece, Malamatina is almost synonymous with Retsina. You may even overhear waiters using this brand to refer to Retsina. And that is for a reason. Malamatina has been dominating the Greek Retsina market for more than a century. Its low price tag, golden color, resin and fruit aromas explain why this low-alcohol brand has been such a success in Greece. Now is it the best Retsina, nope. Is it the best to mix with Coke, perhaps.
Kourtaki Retsina
Around the 1970s, Kourtaki Retsina became so popular that Greeks often used this brand name to refer to Retsina. Its bright yellow color, traditional pine aromas, and aromatic almost-spicy aftertaste have been the ingredients for its increasing popularity over the years. Thankfully, Kourtaki’s Retsina has increased in quality over the years. It’s great to see them adopted this new face of Retsina. It’s still very inexpensive but the turpentine smell has disappeared.
Kechribari Retsina
Although it first appeared in a single traditional tavern in 1938, Kechribari quickly rose to prominence. It has a light body with low alcohol and refreshing acidity that matches traditional Greek dishes. It has always been an exception to the bad reputation of Retsina. This is my personal favorite Retsina.
Modern Retsina Brands
Many wineries in the Attica region of Greece and the wineries in the areas surrounding Thessaloniki, embraced their Retsina heritage and started the Retsina revolution.
Tetramythos Winery
Tetramythos is an excellent winery across the board. Their basic Retsina is a little softer and would be a good wine to ease into Retsinas. They also make a Retsina in Amphora with organic Roditis grapes. This wine is exceptional but definitely more for the wine geeks.
Kechris Tears the Retsina World Apart
Building on their success with Kechribari, the Kechris family has been one of the most influential players in the modern Retsina market. Its product, Tear of the Pine, is the first Retsina made from Assyrtiko. When Tear of the Pine was released, it blew the whole lid off the Retsina game. No one had dared use expensive Assyrtiko grapes for Retsina before. It’s an incredible wine you must try.
They also made two more very interesting Retsinas. The unfiltered Afros is a slightly frizzante Retsina which is my go-to appertif wine. Their Roza is a rosé Retsina made from Xinomavro. All the wines from the Kechris family are worth discovering.
Retsina from Mylonas Winery
Mylonas is basically the king of Savvatiano. They make 6+ different expressions of the grape and one of course being Retsina. Their Retsina is crisp, clean, and aromatic. Not only can you smell its aromas of peach, mango, lemon, and mastic, but you can also feel the taste of fruits in your palate. At that time, its refreshing acidity shines and can brighten up a meal.
Papagiannakos Winery’s Traditional Take on Retsina
Modern does not always have to be revolutionary. Papagiannakos takes the traditional taste of Retsina and elevates it with quality grapes and wine-making materials. The delicate aroma of pine blends well with the strain of lemon and results in a new version of Retsina that speaks to the finest palate!
Retsina Food Pairing
Retsina goes with nearly everything. Because it has an herbal character it adds a bit of extra flavor to the dish. Any food you would add parsley, mint, oregano, basil, or cilantro to would be a good match with Retsina. Retsina also has lemony and citrus flavors, so again anything you would squeeze a lemon on would pairs well with Retsina.
Seafood dishes with Retsina
Although Retsina can pair well with various dishes, it really shines with seafood. Its acidity and pine aromas mean it can blend exceptionally with fatty fish and anything that comes out of the water.
- Grilled octopus
- Fried calamari
- Anchovies
- Smelts
- Grilled sardines
- Sea urchin
- Oysters
Greek Appetizers (Meze) and Food with Retsina
Pretty much every Greek dish goes with Retsina. Greeks add herbs and lemon to nearly everything so Retsina is a natural match. Because its so versatily, it is an excellent choice to side with mezedes. So remember that the next time you visit a tavern or rebetadiko in Greece.
- Olives
- Stuffed grape leaves (dolmades)
- Fava spread
- Tzatziki
- Fried zucchini
- Greek salad
- Hummus
- Meatballs
- Bitter greens
- Roasted lamb
- Greek chicken with lemon potatoes
Bonus Retsina Food Pairings
Here are a few of the unusual dishes that I’ve discovered that go surprisingly well with Retsina.
- Grilled sausages
- Pad Thai
- Butternut squash soup
- Vietnamese spring rolls
- Tempura vegetables
- Garlic mushrooms
- Endive salad
A Few Last Words on Retsina
A couple things you should know when shopping for Retsina. There are a surprising amount of rules about what can and can’t be put on the label. Retsina cannot have the vintage on the label nor can it list the grape varieties. This is a bit outdated thinking but winemakers are moving to fix it. They’ve come up with creative ways to help communicate the vintage to consumers, ie by putting LN20 instead of 2020.
You should definitely try the Retsina of Aoton winery! you’ll love it!